Hungary’s Hidden Gem: Hiking the Szalajka Valley in Bükk National Park
When people think of Hungary, they often imagine a relaxing vacation by Lake Balaton or a city break in Budapest. But beyond these well-known spots lies a true natural paradise. In the northeast of the country, the foothills of the Carpathians stretch out – known as the Northern Hungarian Mountains. This is where you’ll find the stunning Bükk Mountains and Bükk National Park – a perfect destination for hikers, nature lovers, and those seeking peace and quiet.
Bükk National Park is Hungary’s largest continuous forest and is often called the “green lungs” of the country. Beech forests, dramatic caves, picturesque waterfalls, and well-marked hiking trails make it one of Hungary’s top outdoor destinations. A highlight is the idyllic Szalajka Valley in the western part of the Bükk Mountains: an easy hike takes you past natural wonders, crystal-clear lakes, and hidden caves.
On my travel blog, I’ll take you along this scenic route and show you why hiking in the Szalajka Valley is truly worth it. Enjoy reading – and even more, enjoy your adventure in Hungary!
The hike in the Szalajka Valley in brief
If you click on a link below, you will be taken directly to the corresponding section of the route. This starts in the village of Szilvásvárad. Here a steep hiking trail runs through a wooded area towards the Millennium Tower, which promises a wonderful view of Bükk Mountains. This is followed by a section on an asphalt road back into the valley. A lively hiking trail leads past several highlights, such as a trout farm or the Szikla Forrás waterfall. Then you reach the multi-level Fátyol waterfall and at the end of the path you come to a large idyllic lake. This is followed by a very steep ascent to the Istállós Kő cave. The entire hike in Szalajka Valley is approximately 14 kilometers. However, the ascent is strenuous for a short time, but not technically difficult. In addition, the paths are well developed and doable for everyone. I have marked the route and all the important travel destinations on the map.
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14 km (around 3 hours)
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↑↓ 480 m
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Easy
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Szilvásvárad
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Well-developed paths, no steep incline
How to get to the Szalajka Valley
Travel by car
The starting point of the hike is the village of Szilvásvárad, which can be easily reached by car via the winding road 2506. While the journey from Eger takes around 30 minutes, the journey from Budapest to the Szalajka Valley takes around 2 hours. Parking spaces are signposted in Szilvásvárad (see map) and cost 1400 ft for the day. But there are also cheaper tickets on an hourly basis for 280 ft per hour.
Getting here by public transport
There are two train stations in Szilvásvárad (see map). The Szilvásvárad-Szalajkavölgy station is closer to the Szalajka Valley and is regularly served by trains from Eger. You can find more information on the website of the railway company.
The place can also be reached by bus from the surrounding communities and even from Budapest. Lines 1054, 3408, 3486 and 4194 run here for example. The stop is right at the entrance to the park (see map). Current timetables can be found on the following page.
If you want to learn more about traveling by car or public transportation in Hungary, check out my travel blog about Hungary.
The recreation area in the Szalajka Valley in the Bükk National Park
Trail to the Millennium Tower
We start from the parking lot, which is directly on the main road, and turn into Park utca at the corner of the driveway. After a few meters, the hiking trail with the number B9 begins here, which leads to the Millennium Tower. The small path through the dense forest of Bükk Mountains requires full energy straight away, because the ascent is steep, and the ground is littered with tree roots and leaves. At the end of the hiking path, we come to a small parking lot on an asphalt road from which a gravel path leads to the observation tower. In total, the route is 2 kilometers long and requires an ascent of around 250 meters in altitude.
The Millennium Tower, built at the turn of the millennium, is 20 meters high and has a bizarre construction. There is an observation deck on top of the tower that can be viewed for 500 ft during opening hours. A bit too expensive in my opinion, but the view is definitely worth it, and the entrance fee benefits the protection of the Bükk National Park. There are also online or combination tickets that are cheaper.
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10 am to 5 pm, Sa. and Su. till 6 pm
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500 ft, reduced 400 ft
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closed in case of ice, fog, thunderstorms
Short Facts for your Trip
The Szalajka Valley is open all year round and can be visited at any time. In the winter months, however, restaurants, shops and museums can be closed. The main season runs from April to October. We were in Hungary in July, and it was very hot and dry. Many tourists come to the Bükk Mountains at this time, so I recommend the early hours of the morning or the evening to visit Szilvásvárad.
You can plan a half day for a visit to the Szalajka Valley. But you can also spend a whole day here, especially if you also want to hike in the area around. It is definitely worthwhile to stay in this region of Hungary even longer, because the Bükk Mountains promise idyllic landscapes that can be explored on day hikes. For example, the area around Bélapátfalva or the baroque city of Eger. I can also highly recommend the Lillafüred recreation area in the east of the Bükk National Park.
In the neighboring town of Szilvásvárad there are many accommodations* that are ideal starting points for a visit to the Bükk National Park. Even in the high season, I found a hotel on the day of arrival. If you are frugal, you can spontaneously find accommodation here without hesitation. If necessary, you can also find accommodation in the town of Bélapátfalva* 5 kilometers away and then travel by bus.
The easiest way to get around Hungary is with your own car. If you prefer to travel by bus and train, the following websites for buses and for trains will help you navigate through Hungary.
No special equipment is required to visit Szilvásvárad. Pack what you would take with you for a normal excursion into the countryside. If you want to hike to the Istállós Kő cave or to the peaks, be sure to put on shoes with non-slip soles. Food can be bought anywhere in the Szalajka Valley, but it is not particularly good value for money.
There are endless ways to use your camera in Szalajka. Whether landscape photography or macro photography, everyone will find suitable photo motifs here. In any case, take a tripod and filter with you, because waterfalls and beautiful lakes await you, which are ideal for long exposure. This equipment could also be interesting if you don’t want tourists in your pictures.
Hiking in Hungary: Descent back to Szalajka Valley
After our rest at the Millennium Tower, we follow the paved road and after about 2 kilometers turn onto a yellow-marked hiking trail. We want to hike back to the Szalajka valley via a forest path. But after 15 minutes we must realize that the path through the forest is not a hiking path but ends in front of a cliff. While we are wondering whether we can somehow continue here, we get a brief shock. Cracking branches, rolling stones and loud stamping can be heard from a herd of deer fleeing past us around 20 meters away. That was unexpected. We turn around and follow the paved road back down into the valley.
Experience nature in Hungary – adventure trail in the Szalajka Valley
A well-developed hiking trail awaits us in the valley, which runs along a wide variety of sights. We pass different restaurants, several ponds with ducks and birds and a small petting zoo. In addition, a forest museum and various exhibits are on the way. You can even try fish in the restaurant at a trout farm. We meet a lot of people on this popular path through the Szalajka Valley, but the idyll of the park is not destroyed.
Hungary’s small waterfalls – Szikla-Forrás waterfall and Fátyol waterfall
We reach a small pond again, but a small waterfall flows into it. This idyll is called Szikla-Forrás in Hungary. The picturesque surroundings are beautifully reflected in the crystal-clear water and are ideal for a short break. Moreover, the 17-meter-long Fátyol waterfall, which has 18 steps, is just 200 meters away. Unfortunately, the water level is not very high in July, so that hardly any water flows. However, the sight is still very beautiful and impressive. The Fátyol waterfall is the sight and most visited travel destination of the Szalajka Valley.
The greenest lake in Hungary
Most people turn around at the Fátyol waterfall, but at the end of the path there is a wonderfully beautiful lake. The lake shines through the surrounding trees in various shades of green and looks almost artificial. Unfortunately, there is no circular route, but here you can still endure longer. In my opinion the real attraction in the Szalajka Valley.
If you prefer to travel in a group, there is a possibility to join a guided tour. You don’t have to worry about transportation, excursion planning, or food, but you can completely focus on the beauty of Bükk National Park. I recommend booking a tour through Viator portal, where countless activities around the world can be booked easily and safely.
Caves in Bükk National Park – hike to Istállós Kő Cave
To the left of the lake there is a path that climbs very steeply. The ascent is arduous, sometimes slippery, and exhausting. But at the end of the hiking trail, we reach the Istállós Kő Cave, in which a large number of stone tools and bones from the Paleolithic were found. We visit the inside of the impressive cave for a while and then return to the parking lot in Szilvásvárad via the same hiking trail through the Szalajka valley.
Final Thoughts: Is the Szalajka Valley Worth Visiting?
Visiting the Szalajka Valley in Bükk National Park was a truly rewarding nature experience. Along this easy-to-follow trail, you’ll pass serene ponds, gushing waterfalls, mysterious caves, forest wildlife, small museums, and lush woods. It’s a popular destination, especially among families and local tourists. If you prefer a quieter visit, try coming early in the morning or later in the day.
For more solitude and a real hiking adventure, consider exploring the higher-altitude trails in the Bükk Mountains. These routes offer more challenge and far fewer crowds. While there are plenty of restaurants along the valley path, my dining experience was rather disappointing – hopefully, yours will be better. Despite its touristy feel, the Szalajka Valley impressed me with its natural beauty and variety. It’s definitely a place you’ll remember.
Hotels and accommodation in the Szalajka Valley
The best starting point for a visit to the Szalajka Valley is Szilvásvárad. The residents have adjusted to the tourists and hikers. Accordingly, there is a wide range of accommodation in Szilvásvárad* Most are family-run guesthouses that are geared towards individual travelers. If you cannot find free accommodation in the village, the neighboring Bélapátfalva is a good option. There are also many options for overnight stays* Public transport takes you comfortably to the Szalajka Valley. Of course, there are other places in the Bükk Mountains where accommodation is available. You can find a selection under the following link.
I hope you enjoyed my travelogue about Bükk National Park. On my Hungary page I show you other beautiful travel destinations in Hungary and share valuable tips and experiences for your trip to Hungary. Further down in this blog article you will find more sights and attractions in Bükk National Park. Did you like my blog post? Was I able to help you? Then I would be happy if you recommend my travel blog, leave a comment, or follow me on Instagram. Thanks for reading and have fun on your vacation in Hungary.
If you need more details or are looking for more hikes in Hungary, then take a look at this book. It enabled me to discover great hikes that I would not have found without the book. I personally like this series of hiking guides very much. The book is small and handy, offers useful information about hiking and detailed descriptions of the hikes. The book is in German, but I think the hiking routes are understandable even without knowledge of German.
Highlights in Bükk National Park for your trip to Hungary
Szilvásvárad
If you still have time, you can visit a few more sights in the village of Szilvásvárad. For example, there is the former Pallavicini Palace or the reformed round church in the classicism style. There is also the Orbán House Museum, where you can learn about local history and the Palóczen. I was able to get to know their story during my trip to Hungary in the village of Hollókő. This link takes you to my blog post about my visit in Hollókő.
Bélapátfalva
About 5 kilometers south of Szilvásvárad is the village of Bélapátfalva, which can be easily reached by car or public transport. There are also some hiking trails and sights here. For example, the magnificent Cistercian abbey in particular attracts many visitors, but the former limestone quarry and the 815-meter high Bél-kő also invite you to hike in this region of Hungary. Please take a look at my blog post about a beautiful hiking route in Bélapátfalva.
Eger
A little further south on the edge of the Bükk Mountains lies the baroque town of Eger, which is surrounded by small vineyards. The picturesque streets invite you to explore and give the city a special charm. Popular sights in Eger are the neoclassical domed basilica, the Minaret or Dobó Square. A visit to Eger Castle, which is located on a hill to the west of the city center, is also worthwhile. There are also several thermal springs and baths in the area for relaxation.
Lillafüred
Lillafüred is on the other side of the Bükk National Park. This small place is the local recreation area in the east of the Bükk Mountains. There are countless sights and natural spectacles here. You can start your journey to Lillafüred with a ride in the traditional forest railway. The highest waterfall in Hungary, which falls behind the magnificent palace hotel (Palotaszálló), is particularly popular. On Lake Hámori, you can take a romantic tour in a rowboat or go around the lake on a hiking trail. There are also several show caves in Lillafüred, such as the Anna Cave or the Szent István stalactite cave. Furthermore, this area of Hungary offers countless hiking opportunities to the surrounding peaks. Take a look at my blog post about Lillafüred and see for yourself.
Travel guides for Hungary worth reading
The references marked with an asterisk (*) are so-called commission links. If you click on such a referral link and buy something, I get a small commission from the provider. For you, the price does not change! I see it as a small thank you for my work and look forward to any support.
