When travelling to Hungary, most people think of a vacation at Lake Balaton. In fact, along with the capital Budapest, Lake Balaton is the number one travel destination in Hungary. But the state in the heart of Europe has a lot more to offer. The foothills of the Carpathian Mountains extend in the north of the country and conjure up a wonderful mountain landscape. In the middle of the hilly landscape lies the small village of Hollókő, where time seems to stand still. Houses over 100 years old are in the old settlement of the Palóczen who settled here in the 14th century. Hollókő means raven stone, because according to legend, ravens stole everything at night that the inhabitants built during the day. However, the village burned down completely at the beginning of the 20th century and was then rebuilt true to the original. Therefore, today you can find well-preserved houses that take you back to the 14th century. In the alleys of the village, you will meet locals in traditional costumes, visit old workshops and museums and try traditional Palóczen dishes. Here you will encounter rural life before the agricultural revolution in Europe when handicrafts dominated. In addition, there is an old castle on a hill that watches over the settlement and in the past guaranteed protection from invading peoples. Today the settlement is protected by the status of UNESCO World Heritage and attracts many tourists every day who want to experience traditional Hungary up close. If you are planning a trip to Hungary, I can warmly recommend you to visit Holloko. Here on my travel blog, I give you a few impressions from the small town and hope to be able to inspire you. Have fun while reading.
How to get to Hollókő
Arriving by car
The easiest way to get here is by car. From Budapest the drive takes 1.5 hours and takes you along the M3 and road 21. For the navigation you can enter “Hollókő Központi parkoló” so that the satnav will navigate you directly to the parking lot (see map). Parking here costs 1200 ft per day or 400 ft per hour. We only arrived around 6 pm in the evening and were therefore able to park for free.
Getting here by bus
Getting here by public transport is also very easy. Buses run every morning (line 1024) and afternoon (line 439) from Budapest to Hollókő. The journey takes about 2 hours and costs around 2000 ft. The last bus back to Budapest leaves at 4 pm. Further information, bus timetables and tickets can be found on the website of the bus company. From Hollókő there are also buses (line 3355) north to Szécsény on the Slovakian border.
Walking tour of the streets of Hollókő
After a long drive from the east of Hungary, the first thing we do is go to one of the local restaurants. Since the menu is only available in Hungarian and the waiter speaks neither English nor German, we try to explain to him with hands and feet that we do not eat meat. After 20 minutes a traditional Palóc soup is on our table. With meat. We eat it anyway and have to admit that it is very tasty. Then we move on strengthened through the small village.
It is now late and most of the tourists have already left Hollókő. The streets are empty, and we can calmly explore the idyllic scenery. White little houses are on the side of the road and are nicely decorated. We reach the center of the settlement where there is a small white church. A wonderful photo opportunity. Two streets branch off from here, along which countless white houses are lined up.
Almost every house seems to represent a special theme of the handicraft, others serve the residents as a home. In some houses there are souvenir shops where you can buy handicrafts. There are also several museums along the street where you can learn more about the traditional life of the Palóczen. Unfortunately, we arrived a little late, so many houses are already closed.
The museums in Hollókő
There are a variety of museums and other houses where you can see life in the past. We are late and most of the residents are just moving their goods from outside into the warehouse. A cute puppy is waiting for us in front of the pottery house, who is very fond of my camera and tries to grab it. Naughty little dog.
Below is a short list of the museums in Holloko. There are also several souvenir shops and handicraft houses in the village.
Village Museum
Opening times: April to October: 10 am to 6 pm, November to March: 10 am to 4 pm
Entrance Fees: Adults: 400 ft, Students and Retirees: 250 ft
Postal Museum
Opening times: April to October: 10 am to 8 pm
Entrance Fees: Adults: 500 ft, Students, Retirees, postman: 250 ft
Dolls Museum
Opening times: March to October: 10 am to 5 pm
Entrance Fees: Adults: 400 ft, Students and Retirees: 200 ft
Craft Printing Museum
Opening times: March to October: 10 am to 5 pm
Entrance Fees: Adults: 200 ft, Students and Retirees: 100 ft
Hungarian folk dance house
Opening times: March to October: 10 am to 5 pm
Entrance Fees: Adults: 200 ft, Students and Retirees: 100 ft
Weaving House
Opening times: March to October: 10 am to 5 pm
Entrance Fees: Adults: 300 ft, Students and Retirees: 150 ft
You can find more information on the website of the village.
Short Facts for your Trip
The main season runs from April to October. During this time, all museums, restaurants, and shops are open daily. The opening times differ in winter. A visit is particularly worthwhile at Easter, because then the annual Easter Festival takes place, where you can experience the traditional customs of the residents up close. We were in Hungary in July, and it was very hot and dry. Lots of tourists come at this time, so I recommend visiting early in the morning or in the evening.
You can plan half a day for the visit to Hollókő. If you want to visit all the museums and houses, you can stay here all day. There are enough possibilities. Nevertheless, it is worthwhile to stay longer, because the region promises an idyllic landscape that is best explored on a hike. There are a few suggestions for hiking trails on the following website.
The easiest way to get around Hungary is with your own car. If you prefer to travel by bus and train, the following websites for buses and for trains will help you navigate through Hungary.
No special equipment is required to visit Hollókő. Pack what you would take with you for a normal city trip. Because of the white houses, I definitely recommend sunglasses. The castle is located on a rock, so sturdy shoes are recommended for the ascent. Since it can be fresh and windy in the walls of the fortresses, a sweater could come in handy.
In order to get the full splendor of the courtyards of the castle in your pictures, it is best to take a wide-angle lens with you. But this lens is also suitable for the streets in the old town. A tripod and filter could be interesting if you don’t want tourists in your pictures.
There are a few accommodations in Hollókő that could be described as homestays. Here you stay in one of the white houses right in the center. But most of the hotels are in the surrounding villages, which are just a few kilometers away. We stayed in Alsótold at the time and were very satisfied.
The castle of Hollókő
The fortress of Holloko is located on a hill west of the village and can be reached on foot via several hiking trails. When we arrive at the castle, it is deserted because the gates are already locked. But the mighty “Hollókői vár” is also worth seeing from the outside and we are very impressed. In addition, from up here you have a wonderful view of the landscape of the region. Anyone coming to Hollókő should definitely see the castle.
Opening times, prices, and access to the castle
Inside the medieval castle you get an impression of life in a castle. The rooms are furnished with figures, old weapons, and other props to create an ancient atmosphere. You can also get inside the tower of the fortress and enjoy a wonderful view.
Opening times: March to October: 10 am to 5:30 pm
Entrance Fees: Adults: 900 ft, Students and Retirees: 600 ft
The legend of the castle
The castle was built in the 14th century. According to legend, a gentleman once lived here who kidnapped the wife of another ruler. He locked her in a room surrounded by stone walls. But a witch who was a member of the woman’s family had made a pact with the devil. And so it happened that the sons of the devil in the form of ravens carried away the stones of the walls in the night so that the woman could escape. The settlement was therefore named after the ravens, because Hollókő means something like raven stone.
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Conclusion on Hollókő
Our visit to Hollókő was very exciting because you get a good impression of rural life in the past. However, I recommend coming early in the morning or in the evening when the tourist masses are not yet there or have already left. But you should definitely pay attention to the opening times if you want to look at the museums in the village. In addition, some houses are closed in winter or have different opening times. Hollókő is a bit off the main travel routes but getting there is easy by car or bus. There are some hotels right in the village, but there are also accommodations in the vicinity. The traditional food in Hollókő is very tasty and you should definitely try it. If you are looking for more information, it is best to visit the website of the village. I would definitely travel to the idyllic settlement again, because the landscape in the region is also beautiful for hiking.
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